Jennys

Jun 172009
 

When we made the decision to move to Jamaica more than 2 years ago we searched Google for rooms to rent in Negril and one of the listings we found was for Heart Beat Seaside Resort on the West End Cliffs of Negril. We decided to make the initial move in summer when better long term rates are available and we ended staying there for the first 6 months we lived in Jamaica. I think that living at Heart Beat and meeting the people we did has made our long term stay in Negril possible in many ways.

We moved and tried other places to live in Negril but we have remained close with the staff which includes Hyacinth and Junie the housekeepers and Kevin the groundskeeper as well as Valerie Brewis the property owner who is a 30 year resident of this wonderful slice of the world. We have lived away from the sea since we left and we have been longing for it since that same day. Something about living seaside is just so peaceful and natural to me and Heart Beat is the perfect place for relaxing days watching nature and life pass by. I think it must have something to do with growing up in Key West and always near the ocean but I can waste away hours just watching the waters in anticipation of a school of fish jumping or a dolphin popping up for air.

We sat at Devine Destiny for a long time and when it was time for a change we new we wanted to be within sight of the Caribbean again. If we could we wanted to be seaside but living there long term can be a trick. Lucky for us we happen to know some and we are once again relaxing in the beauty and cool quiet atmosphere of Heart Beat where the sunsets from the cliffs bring to end yet another wonderful day, each and every day.

I don’t think I have ever felt as laid back or chill as I do when we are here and the past two weeks have been so relaxed they seem to have slipped by in my sleep. We moved into an unused space that required some cleaning but in between the work and repairs we have enjoyed some of the best days this year and no matter what happens it’s always very calm and quiet here and the chirping of birds or the rustling of palm trees in the crisp sea breeze is about all you ever notice.

With 2.5 acres and limited buildings there is plenty of open space and there are a number of walking paths that lead to the waters edge where you can actually dive into the ocean head first from less than 10 feet above sea level. Many of the other cliff resorts are much higher up and not so well suited to afternoon dips or snorkeling in the warm waters of the Caribbean but you can experience some of the best cliff side snorkel trips in Negril right from easy to use ladders that you find on both ends of the property.

There is a coral reef which runs just off the Negril cliffs that starts in the waters off of Heart Beat and on any morning you may find Jamaican divers swimming by with spear guns in hand in search of the catch of the day. If you don’t see any divers you are guaranteed a show from the local fisherman who take off from the small fishing boat fleet on the beaches near Mi Yard and head out to the deeper reef far outshore in their motor boats or the lone fisherman who paddles by in his dugout boat and pulls fish traps just outside the mooring buoys along the coastline. It’s a cool way to start your day by watching them run their fish nets or pull the traps in the early morning sun which you can watch rise up over Long Bay Beach and the Westmoreland mountains between Negril and Montego Bay.

We have been snorkeling about as often as we can and even our four year old Robbie has enjoyed the beautiful sealife that can be found just a few feet from shore. We have seen dozens of different tropical fish including some pretty cool porcupine fish and multi colored damsel fish plus sea urchins, sea cucumbers and even a pretty big stingray feeding in the muddy sand bar. It’s almost never ending as each new day bring something new into the area and we have something new to discover just about every morning. I think mornings before 8am are the best time to jump in the water as the sun is about in the perfect position for taking well lighted photos and everything seems to be awake and feeding.

There are all types of wildlife in the natural environment around you and you can listen to birds sing almost all day long. Right now there is a pair of Jamaican Orioles weaning two chicks who hop around on palm tree branches begging food from mommy and picking through the beds of soft grass on ground below their home. An Orangequit has been flying onto the porch and grabbing tufts of thatch from the roof for the past week while building a nearby nest. There are a number of date palms in the yard which shed a sweet date that hermit crabs just love to eat. You can find them at all times of the day just about all over the yard but at night there are hundreds of them crawling around under the two largest trees. If you dare to pick one up carefully you’ll find an assortment of colors and shells and they can reach in size up to the palm of your hand. Every morning the White Crown Pigeons that live high up in the almond tree drop down on the cliffs to sip rainwater alongside the rock doves and occasional egret. The Jamaican almond trees shed seeds year round and you can actually crack them open and eat the almonds inside although it requires a bit more work then they are worth unless you know the trick to cracking them on the seam. The yard also has a number of ackee trees as well a coconut palms, sea grapes and spanish limes.

Heart Beat remains simple and there is no spa or restaurant operating on site although you can have a massage in your room or seaside with a local massage therapist. For dining there is Jacko and Jennys Restaurant across the street which offers a great selection of Jamaican and international dishes. From french toast and scrambled eggs to ackee and saltfish, brown stew chicken and fried fish with bammy they offer a variety of menu items that should satisfy anyone. At night you can find some of the best jerk chicken on the West End at Tayons where you can buy a cold Red Stripe and shoot a game of pool with the local crew. Tayons is open until 2am and plays a great selection of reggae and dancehall favorites on the sound system that I truly enjoy. I have heard some complaints about the loud music by those looking for sleep early in the evening but Negril is a late night place and you’ll hear music all over town until the early morning hours.

There a number of different room types available for rent from the small cottage with kitchenette and bath called Calypso where we lived to the seaside pillar rooms which feature beautiful hand finished wood work throughout and a porch facing those picture perfect sunsets up to the larger unit which sleeps up to 7 people in beds made from bamboo. All of the rooms have funky names to fit the theme such as Dancing Dolphin or Lovers Rock and come complete with mini fridge, screened windows and ornate ceiling fans. The rooms have comfortable beds and basic furnishings with a rustic homey feel to them and they are meticulously maintained by the kindest people you’ll ever meet.

The pillar rooms are very popular for romantic getaways for newlywed couples on honeymoon in Negril on their Jamaica vacation but are equally as popular with Jamaicans from as far as Kingston looking for that perfect Negril weekend. The seaside apartments in the main building are one bedroom units with full kitchen and private bath plus ceiling fans and screened windows which face Long Bay and Negril Beach for a great view of the bay and beach area with the mountains in the backdrop. You can join the local fisherman who walk out to the point of the cliffs nearby and bait fish with handlines each late afternoon for a beer and conversation or you can just sit and watch them from your veranda.

Heart Beat is a $2 taxi ride from everything in Negril yet inside the walls it often feels like your miles away from everything which is exactly how you want it to be sometimes. If you are looking for a romantic seaside getaway in Negril then you must check them out on the Heart Beat website or facebook page to arrange your vacation.

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Oct 082008
 

This story is two months old now but I decided it was too funny not to post. It was a long summer. The kids and I had lunch at Jennys restaurant in Negril one afternoon. I drove down the cliffs from our home here on West End and ended up parked directly in front of the restaurant on the wrong side of the street.

While pulling away from the restaurant I had to leave with a large truck in the road in front of me. I saw a van coming down the hill and he saw me coming out. The idiot decided he could squeeze between me and the wall and ended up bumping my front bumper. I stopped instantly and barely had even moved. I was only traveling like 3MPH at the time of the accident.

The other driver came out with his arms swinging in the air and he was already cursing me. He walked over to my window and yelled to me that he was calling the police. I looked him in the eyes and said, “Go ahead call the cops. I have insurance”. He turned away from me and went back to his van where he reached in the window and came out with a machete. It was a nice long one and he proceeded to slap the windshield and side of my van with it. He was unaware the kids were in the van but he stuck the knife inside the rear window where the kids were and shook it around inside my van.

I did not even think about it. I started my van and drive off. I took back streets and ended up on the road to Sav. I decided to take the kids to the grocery store and we made an afternoon trip out of town. I made it back home at around 5pm and apparently just in time to meet with the lunatic cab driver who had somehow tracked me down to my apartment. This nut met me here at my home with a metal pole he found poolside.

This was a little too much for me and I took his road rage and added a double dose of my anger management to the situation, thats one dose per kid he endangered. I was glad to fight any ass who threatened me and my kids and then had the balls to bring it to my home. We battled in the yard for a minute or two. I took a whack with the pole over the head and shoulders that was hard enough to knock me on my knees but I was able to tackle him on the concrete and remove his weapon in the same motion. I did loose an inch of flesh on both knees as I landed on the sidewalk and he proceeded to drag me around a bit.

This guy was nuts and the only way I could get rid of him was to hurt him which I did not want to do. I ended up holding him locked on the ground until we agreed to go our separate ways. They called the cops who I was actually glad to see until they decided to try to blame me for the whole thing. They took me down to the Negril police department and tried to say I was going to be arrested for fleeing the scene of an accident. I told them I was forced to do so by a man with a machete. It got kinda heated after I told them I had expected this to be turned against me. I explained to them that in America its always the black mans fault and in Jamaica its the white guy. I am considered a white man by most people here and the cops normally try to blame me for things.

I told the lead cop there was no chance I would be treated fairly and he should just go ahead and do what he had too. I told him this was the second time I had been sat down in the same room with the handcuff chains hanging on the chair in front of me and for the second time I sat in the station as a victim while the criminal walked free. I asked him how a man could attack me with a knife and I should be arrested for running away.

After quite a bit of loud talk and explanation on my part I was released with no arrest. They decided to drop everything and leave well enough alone. I think it was the blood running down my leg and all over the floor that set them straight but I’m not sure still. They may have simply been tired of my mouth as most Jamaicans will after awhile.

Look for some pics and more as I heal my wounds with a natural antibiotic in the next blog post.

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Nov 032007
 

Blue Horizone Sign

Blue Horizon Bar

Blue Horizon Restaurant

Jerk Chicken Dinner from Blue Horizon

We stopped in for dinner at Blue Horizon Restaurant for some jerk chicken in Negril recently and it was a nice experience overall. The Authentic Jamaican food was good and the place was beautiful and all for us to enjoy. Not a single customer in there either time we went. Sometimes thats nice but other times its not. I was a bit surprised with our first bill and we spent a bit more than I thought we should but thats how things go in Jamaica sometimes. I should have asked how much my dinner was costing me if I was worried about it. I think I paid like $600 Jamaican for a nicely dressed jerk chicken quarter and some rice. The place is nice but not that nice really and for a better value I could have gone to Jennys just a short walk down West End Road.

Blue Horizon is probably much nicer for a romantic dinner for two on the Cliffs in Negril or a small gathering of friends at the bar for some Red Stripes and a cool sunset. I don’t think we’ve had a romantic dinner since my first son was born and my kids are both picky. The menu is thin during the summer I guess because we only had a couple of choices for dinner. My thoughts are it is a much better choice for dinner during season when the restaurant is in full gear and the Jamaican chef has more food to cook. During the slow summers it is sometimes hard for all of these restaurants to keep stocked and ready for the occasional customers fancy.

Like I said the food was fine but the best thing here is certainly the view. Looking out over the cliffs from this high up and watching the sunset as you eat dinner is super sweet and makes for a relaxing evening and good time no matter what. If you’re looking for a nice place to eat in Negril and a nice romantic evening then surely consider Blue Horizon Restaurant for a laid back relaxed good time and good food.

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Oct 272007
 

Sign out front of Jennys Restaurant

Sign out front of Jennys Restaurant

Jennys and Jackos Favourite Cakes and Restaurant has been in the same spot on West End Road in Negril Jamaica for 30 years. Jennys and Jackos should really be called Dorothy and Jackos. Ms. Jenny passed on many years ago now but that spot was made famous as Jennys so when Jacko and his wife Dorothy took over they ripped down the old building and put in the new place while adding Jackos name to the sign and Mrs Dorothy now answers to the name Mrs Jenny far more often then her own name. Must be kinda weird for Tayon and Jennys other children who still live in the neighborhood to hear mommas name still used so long after she has passed on. I suppose thats a legacy of sorts.

Jennys is famous for its “special cakes” but popular for being the best value restaurant in all of Negril. It’s a locals restaurant that feeds the neighborhood and tourists alike. You’ll most often find the place packed with Jamaicans enjoying such island favorites as Ackee and Saltfish for breakfast and Brown Stew Chicken for lunch or dinner. Jennys has not only some of the most delicious food with generous portions but is down right cheap for the quality. The $200JA plate of Brown Stew Chicken is a heaping helping of vegetables, rice and peas and a chopped chicken quarter smothered in the delectable brown stew sauce. Not into brown stew? It’s all good cause Jennys does a mean Curry Chicken also.

Jennys is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner with something on the menu for everyone. I have actually eaten more menu items but I always forget to take pictures for the blog. I know I had the Oxtail Stew and Curry Goat both of which were fantastic but no pics. I do have pics and write ups on each of these below though so enjoy. If you’re in Negril on the West End you should think about stopping by a real Jamaica eatery and dining with locals for the day at Jennys and Jackos. It’s located at the beginning of the cliffs just past Heartbeat Seaside Resort.

Ackee and Saltfish

I have no idea why but I never ate ackee and saltfish until this trip. Now that I think about things it may have been the idea that saltfish would not taste good for breakfast that kept me from ever trying any. I knew it was supposed to be the Jamaican national breakfast and everyone ate it but it was not very appealing to me at all. I forced myself to try it this go around and lo and behold it has become my favorite breakfast. I simply love the flavor and texture of an ackee and saltfish breakfast. The best deal on the menu is you ask me because for $250JA you get a heaping pile of ackee flecked with saltfish that has been deboned as best they can and the rest of your plate is covered in the most delicious steamed vegetables and dumplings. The breakfast plate comes with a mixture of steamed vegetables like green bananas, yellow yam, dasheen, plaintains, dumplings and of course a pile of callaloo. Soak it down with a glass of orange juice and its so sweet. Saltfish for breakfast is a unique flavor and you may better enjoy just a plate of ackee and callaloo if you’re not into fish.

Ackee and Salfish from Jennys

Fish Tea Soup

I just love a cup of fish tea. It’s a spicy fishy broth usually laden with fish bones and odd fish parts that makes a simply scrumptious soup ato me. I really like a well made fish tea and Jennys is a great example. I do wish they would dice the vegetables smaller but thats a personal preference. I like to dice vegetables in a soup and stir it heavily to break up pieces and thicken up the broth. Jennys Fish tea tastes great and has a thicker consistency than most but its still kinda light for my tastes. I like to taste the fish in a fish tea and not have the overbearing peppers and spice flavor. Jennys fish tea is a great balance between spice and fish.

Conch Soup

I’ll start by saying I don’t prefer Jamaica style conch soup but I like it. I grew up in the Florida keys where we had Cuban style conch soup and I prefer the taste and texture of that. Cuban style or Key West Conch soup normally has loads of small bits of diced conch meat and a much different broth and flavor to it. Jamaican style conch soup has much larger and more flavorful pieces of conch meat in the soup but a lighter/waterier broth. I like the Jamaican conch soup and the larger pieces of meat but I think again I personally would prefer smaller pieces of conch diced into the broth and a long slow cook to thicken it up.

Brown Stew Chicken

I had never had brown stew anything until this trip to Jamaica. (I know, no ackee and no brown stew until now) I had also never eaten at Jennys until we arrived at Heartbeat Jamaica and our first lunch on the island together as a family was here. The first meal I ordered was the curry chicken because it was safe but my next meal was the brown stew and its been my favorite ever since. I love brown stew chicken and brown stew fish. I especially like the chicken though as I think it just works better that way. I have had rice and peas before but rarely tasted the coconut milk in the rice until I ate at Jennys. Now I understand how rice and peas are supposed to taste and I love it. I can actually eat brown stew chicken, rice and peas every day and save a fortune over cooking at home while eating better.

Brown Stew Chicken at Jennys

Here is the takeout order Brown stew chicken dinner from Jennys and Jackos
Brown Stew Chicken takeout at Jacko and Jennys in Negril

Brown Stew Fish

Brown Stew Fish at Jennys and Jackos in Negril

The brown stew fish dinner meal is much the same as the chicken except that the fish is not fresh cooked for you. The brown stew dressing is added to the fish already cooked for that day. It’s the way many Jamaican restaurants do fish, they cook the fish early on in the day and then put it on display for you often in a glass case. This makes the fish dry and hard most often but heating it up in some brown stew sauce actually helps it out. Brown stew is not my favorite way to do fish and I much prefer it steamed. Brown stew is better with chicken I think.

Glass case at Jennys Restaurant

Steamed Fish

What’s not to like about steamed fish? That’s right nothing. What makes a good steam fish? I like the coconut. I prefer steamed snapper to begin with and yellowtail if possible. A steamed yellowtail snapper sounds good even right now. The steamed fish meals are prepared fresh and a great meal for lunch or dinner. Here is the fish I had for dinner just last night. Yes it has taken me over a month to finish writing this article and collect all the pictures of Jamaican food from Jennys.

Steamed Fish from Jennys

Jennys Cakes

They say Ms. Jenny made the best cakes and you can still get a great slice of cake from Jennys and Jackos. I have noticed that Jamaican cakes are a bit more dry then I am used to but maybe that’s how Jamaicans like it. Almost every slice of cake I have had here was very dry but it could just be me and the heat during summer. I don’t care much for sweets in the heat but I choked down a couple slices of cake with the kids and enjoyed it. I was told Jennys has the best “special cakes” and you could find a nice slice of ganja cake if you asked nicely and didn’t look like a cop. A likle bird told me for $600 Jamaica you can buy a bigfat slice and have a great trip in Negril. ya unnastan mon? :)

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Jul 182007
 

View of Caribbean Sea from Negril Cliffs and our front porch

This is our view from the front porch on the first morning in Jamaica. We’ve been in Negril for just over ten days now and it’s time I got some new photos and stuff up. These would be some of our first pictures here in Negril. It’s summer time of course and although the sun is hot the city life is pretty quiet. Not many tourists in town for the heat of summer so things are extra slow right now. Often times we find ourselves the only patrons of an establishment and some times they open up just for us. There is a good and a bad to that in that we are met by friendly faces but times are tough and everyone wants to make something from us.

We’ve gotten used to it quickly and a firm “No Thank You” covers almost everything. We got beat over a few meals because we didn’t think to ask about the price before we ordered some places. They’ll hit you hard at the end if they can and don’t be embarrassed to negotiate any check handed you. Times are tough all over and my money is best kept in my pocket. Jamaicans actually appreciate a good barter but have no love for a cheap person. If you can’t settle a deal they will probably curse you for wasting their time as if it were more valuable then yours.

Negril Beach on 07-07-07

Negril Beach in the summer is a beautiful thing and the sun shines down on us all day long here. The beach and water are our favorite spots so far and it’s been a lot of relaxing and chilling in the sun for us since our arrival. We’re slowly moving out and about and I have loads of more stuff to post about but a big part of our stay was the water fun for the kids. Our room at Heartbeat in Negril has an awesome view and the easy access to the beach and seas makes snorkel trips and frolicking in the water an easy activity for us all.

Beach near Heartbeat Seaside Resort in Negril Jamaica

Our room does not have direct beach access and we are not on the famous Negril Beach. We’re currently at the base of the Cliffs of Negril and about a 2 minute cab ride at $150JA for the four of us. We do have a beach we can use that suits us just fine and it’s been a lot of fun for the kids to spend hours playing with some of the local boys on the beach. It’s behind a restaurant that seems more a late night bar but the day time crew at “On The Rocks” has been great. The beach here at Heartbeat is great but we much prefer the Negril Beach for a nicer cleaner beach with more activity and things to see. This beach is not maintained and some odd things are washed up on shore.

A Picture Perfect Day at Heartbeat in Negril Jamaica

Sun rise over Negril Beach and the mountains of Hanover Parish

One of the best things about Jamaica is all the natural beauty around us. On our 3rd morning in I got up a it earlier than usual and was able to catch a great Sunrise from the rocks outside our room. I was able to get a decent shot of the sun rising over the Negril Beach with the Mountains in the background that was just an awe inspiring thing to witness live. No camera can do the colors any justice and my amateur photography is not up to the task yet. I’m still learning the new camera and whats best to use in conditions like this but man it was worth waking up early thats for sure. It turned out to be a picture perfect day. I caught the sunrise, a trip to the beach for some fun in the sun with the kids, some beautiful snorkeling along the coast of Negril after a fabulous lunch of local cuisine and ended the day with a perfect Sunset from the vantage point of our room and the porch out front.

Negril Beach on 07-07-07

After the sunrise and a likkle brekfast we ran down to Negril Beach so the family could finally see the famous beach. It was pretty hot and we had things to do like hit the Hi Lo so we we’re not there very long. After the trip to Hi Lo we decided to have lunch at Jennys Restaurant just up the road from us as no one wanted to cook or wait for something to be cooked. We took the Brown Stew Chicken because it was ready and we wanted to try it. It’s become a favorite meal especially for the low price of $200JA per plate. A full meal consists of healthy portion of chicken served with rice and peas, cabbage and vegetables. My review of Jennys comes soon.

Brown Stew Chicken at Jennys

Later in the day the kids hit the beach and dad did a little snorkeling off up the coast and around the rocks near the hotel. The water s great and the kids are taking to the sun and sea better than expected. They both have a few extra bite marks from the bugs but we’re controlling it. The beach is close by and easy for them to swim and me to explore while still watching them. This is nearly the same spot as the sunrise pictures but looking back towards the beach.

Kids swimming at the Heartbeat Seaside Resort Beach

The sea life around Negril is awesome and the short dive I took on our third day was great. The biodiversity near shore is still strong although I was disappointed in the number of game fish to be found. There are tons of tropical fish of all flavors and the pictures above are a small sample of the underwater photos I have been able to take. I’ve see a lot of things on snorkel trips around the cliffs here in Negril and I’m looking forward to taking the camera on some bigger dive trips as we go further off coast and into some deeper waters on a glass bottom boat soon. Their seem to be loads of juvenile tropical fish in the area with lots of small butterfly and other damsels. I was surprised to see a few Rock Beauty Angels and a Juvenile Queen Angel but my shots on those are shoddy. I need a weight belt for better motion control and shot consistency.

Juvenile French Angel off the coast of Negril Jamaica

Juvenile French Angel

Juvenile Banded Butterfly Fish

Juvenile Banded Butterfly Fish

Pair of Banded Coral Shrimp

Banded Coral Shrimp

Large Snail off Negril Jamaica

Large Snail off Negril Jamaica

I took a little nap during the afternoon showers which are very common here in Negril. It was nice to wake up to a cool refreshing breeze whipping through our room as it raced in from the ocean in front of us. The ocean breeze is really nice when we have it. Right now it’s hotter then heck in my room tonight as I type this blog post. It’s 11PM and about 85 C and I’m sweating like a pig in my bed. Theres a decent breeze tonight so I bust open the windows and hope for no mosquitoes. The afternoon showers make for some great cloud formations and leads into a perfect sunset and an end to a perfect day.

Rain clouds form as afternoon showers arrive in Negril Jamaica in Summer 2007

Rain clouds form as afternoon showers arrive in Negril Jamaica in Summer 2007

Sunset in Negril Jamaica

It looks like we’re falling in love with Negril Jamaica and I thinks Heartbeat has someting to do wit dat mon. A far I concerned we cyan stay here f’ever.

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